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“The Memory of Skin” Autumn/Winter '19

Intricate patterns stitched straight onto padded pockets and panels play with the ideas of mark-making and the theory of skin having memories.Hats harking back to pioneering pilots. The padded shapes sit right on the ear as if they’re renditions of a pilots cap in the early 20th century.The shapes of the coats and jackets are a reprise of what’s become signature Mai Gidah. Rounded shoulders, this time fitted slightly closer to the body with accentuated classic inset sleeves.As always pocketing plays a big role and now the pockets are treated as 3D objects. They become embossed with patterns and volume. Interweaving both the contemporary and classic because what is more traditional then a useful pocket.Robust and detailed the stitched patterns on the 3D pockets and panels refer to various ethnic origins. Are they tattoos, ritual or warrior markings? Are they refective of nature or are they mimicking modern graphic pen-drawings?Fabrics also reflects the dual nature of the designs. Wool is contrasted with thermoplastic polyurethane. Mesh tops are worn with woolly trousers. There’s no fantastical narrative behind the collection but rather a desire to mould separate ideas into beautiful and useful clothing.